August 28, 2008 


Don't fret if you're not sure what a cummerbund is or confused about the difference between a spread collar and a wing collar. We've compiled a this handy dictionary to help you be an expert (or at least sound like one) when you decide on your tuxedo.

Suits
Cutaway:
 The Cutaway or Morning Coat is groom attire most appropriate for daytime weddings (11 am - 4 pm). It tapers from from the front waist button to a long, wide back tail. Accessories include a wing-collar shirt with an ascot and a coordinating vest. Jacket is black or grey and is worn with matching striped trousers.
Stroller:
 The Stroller or Walking Coat is attendant attire most appropriate for daytime weddings (11 am - 4pm). It is cut slightly longer than a suit jacket and is worn with a spread-collar shirt and a four-in-hand tie. Jacket is black or grey and is worn with matching striped trousers.
Dinner Jacket:
 A white or ivory jacket with black formal trousers is an ideal option in spring and summer months or year round in warmer climates for formal and semiformal evening weddings.
Tuxedo:
 A single or double-breasted jacket with matching trousers for formal or semiformal evening weddings, tuxes come in a variety of fabrics. Accessories include a dress shirt with cuff links and studs, and a bow tie with a vest or cummerbund.
White Tie:
 This is the classic choice for the ultra formal evening wedding. The tailcoat jacket is short in front with two long back tails. A white piqué (a waffle textured fabric in cotton or cotton blend) front wing-collar shirt, tie, and vest are also worn. Tailcoats can be worn for formal daytime or evening weddings in gray, navy, or burgundy with matching ties and cummerbunds.
Lapels
Suit jackets come with three basic styles. Some are more flattering to certain body types. But for the most part, choosing one that's right for you is merely a matter of taste.
Notch:
 A triangular indentation is cut where the lapel joins the collar.
Peak:
 A broad V-shaped lapel that points up and out just below the collar line.
Shawl:
 A smooth, rounded lapel.
Shirts
The primary difference between shirt styles is in the collar. Each collar style usually comes in many different collars, with or without ruffles, pleats, stripes, or other decorations.
Band Collar:
 A collar that stands up around the neck and above the buttons; this is the most contemporary style. The entire length of tie surrounding neck is visible on the type of collar.
Classic Shirt:
 The traditional formal shirt is white with buttons or stud closures. It may or may not have French cuffs and usually has pleats on either side of the buttons or studs.
Spread Collar:
 Similar to a man's standard button-front shirt, it folds over around the neck with a wide division between points in front.
Wing Collar:
 Similar to a band collar but with two turned-down points in front that give the appearance of a spread collar.
Accessories
Your wedding may be the only day in your life that you have more accessories to coordinate than your wife does.
Ascot:
 A wide necktie (almost like a scarf) that is looped over and held in place beneath the chin with a tie tack or stickpin. Worn with a wing-collar shirt and the daytime wedding cutaway jacket.
Bow Tie:
 A short tie shaped like a bow that can be worn with a wing or spread collar. A shirt's wing collar can be either be tucked behind the bow tie or worn facing out over the tie. Most bow ties adjust to fit all neck sizes and are available in a variety of widths, colors, and patterns to match the vest or cummerbund.
Cuff Links:
 Decorative jewelry used to close French cuffs.
Cummerbund:
 A silk or satin sash as an alternative to a vest worn at the waist and covering the trouser's waistband. A cummerbund should be worn with the pleats facing up.
Euro-Tie:
 A long, knotted square-bottom necktie worn with a wing or spread-collar shirt.
Four-in-hand Tie:
 A standard long knotted necktie worn with a spread collar. This is the traditional name for the type of necktie most men wear to work.
Pocket Square:
 A small pocket handkerchief tucked into the left breast pocket worn by groomsmen instead of a boutonniere.
Studs:
 Jewelry similar to cuff links that are used to close the front of a formal tuxedo shirt, which traditionally does not have buttons down the front. Studs usually come in sets of three and four.
Suspenders:
 Two supporting bands worn over the shoulders to support the trousers. They can coordinate, in color or pattern, with a cummerbund.
Vest:
 Worn in place of a cummerbund to cover the trouser waistband with bottom vest button left unbuttoned. It's often worn with a coordinating bow tie. Some are adjustable at the neck and waist with an open back, while others have a fully covered back. If you think you might remove your jacket during the reception, opt for the full-back vest.
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